“It‘s good to lay slate. Hammer, chisel – lift, cut, move, chisel – lay stone after stone. Again and again. Hard work that the body is made for – even if it may have forgotten. To make it happen, work long and with care – to get an aching body but not an aching head – as it's good for the head.
And when I've finished, I’ll know I've done something that will last a long time.”
Lasse Berre, photographer (with flagstones he laid himself at his cabin)
Glued slate will not come loose if the installation is done correctly. By using glue intended for slate, and following the manufacturer’s instructions (e.g. for temperature, substrate, glue layer, open time for ready-mixed glue, etc.), you will get a long-lasting result. Read more in the installation instructions for glueing slate.
For slate tiles with said edge, the same applies as to ceramic tiles. In principle, there is no difference in their installation. A joint width of approx. 5 mm is often used. When gluing slate slabs with a rustic cut edge, a larger joint width is required. As a rule of thumb, it should be half the thickness of the slate slab itself. E.g. a cut slab with a thickness of 30 mm should have a joint width of min.15 mm.
It is not recommended. A hard cement-based grout will not give a durable result when the slate tiles are laid in loose masses (joints crack and loosen).
Slate can be glued on concrete both indoors and outdoors, e.g. on terraces. Slate can be laid directly on pedestals (without glue/ joints) in an outdoor area/terrace. Outdoor areas in the garden can be made using slate laid in gravel on a surface that is stable and frost-free. Slate slabs can be laid directly in the lawn with a layer of gravel underneath. See our films and installation instructions for how to shape and install slate.
Yes, slate can be glued directly onto walls with suitable substrates such as plaster, concrete, Leca etc. both outdoors and indoors. They can also be screwed onto walls horizontally or vertically, and where the slate tiles overlap. Slate can also be used for walls using mortar joints or without mortar joints (drywall). See our films and installation instructions for how to shape and install slate.
Our slate can be cut with an angle grinder or sawn with a stone saw with a water-cooled saw blade. Slate flagstones and slabs can be shaped with a hammer and/or slate knife, or cut to the desired shape using slate cutters (to be rented from our dealers). Light Oppdal slate can also be scratched and cracked in the same way as glass panes are broken. See different methods for adjusting slate in this installation guide.
Only a few and simple tools are needed, including a hammer, scriber, chisel, slate knife, or angle grinder. To shape slabs, a hammer goes a long way. A slate knife can be used to fine-tune the edges. Slate can also be easily customised with slate cutters that can be rented/borrowed from our dealers.
A slate scissors is a manual cutter used for shaping slabs. It is very easy to use, does not require electricity, and makes fitting faster, easier and neater. The ascissors allow both straight and curved edges to be easily cut. The thickness of the slate can be up to approx. 20 mm. You can rent a slate scissors from our dealers. See how to cut slate with scissors here.
The advantage is that the actual installation is simpler, cheaper, and that it is easier to make subsequent changes if necessary. The disadvantage is that the coating can become more unstable and that grass can grow in the joints.
Installation is more extensive than installation in gravel. The joints can be jointed with a cement-based grout, and the coating will withstand greater point loads and greater torsional forces.